We recently spent a wonderful weekend in San Miniato, organised by Sara from Discover San Miniato. The experience we had over two days was both fascinating and delicious in equal measure. And as a result we completely fell in love with this intriguing small town, justly renowned for its precious truffles and Medieval historic centre.
San Miniato is located halfway between Florence and Pisa, and it’s an easy day tour. But it’s also a great alternative for those looking for a place steeped in history, one offering top quality food and wine. As a bonus, it’s just far enough off the beaten track to give a more authentic taste of Tuscan life.
A weekend in San Miniato, Tuscany
A visit to the winery Cosimo Maria Masini and Lunch with Wine Tasting
We start this adventure with a visit to the Winery Cosimo Maria Masini, where the owner, Maria, welcomes us. The Villa, which used to belong to the Bonaparte family, no less – is surrounded by vineyards and in the distance you can spot the famous San Miniato tower. This place represents Tuscany at its best: a passion for the wine they produce, old traditions and a beautiful landscape that enchants you. After a walk in the vineyards – where we learn about the autoctonous Sangiovese and San Forte grape varieties – we visit the cellar, where the wine begins its long period of fermentation.
Our guides explain that that their method of producing wine is biodynamic, a step on from organic farming. It doesn’t only exclude the use of chemical products, but helps regenerate the soil and its biological fertility. Last stop is the magical Vinsantaia, a small room where the ‘caratelli‘ (small wood barrel where Vinsanto ages) are used to prepare the traditional Tuscan sweet wine.
After the visit, lunch awaits us. And what a lunch it is. We start with crostini followed by sublime homemade lasagne, each course accompanied by one of the estate’s wines. They produce white, rose, red wine and orange. We absolute loved the Annick, an easy-drinking, finely balanced white, and I’m intrigued to learn about Orange Wine too, a type of white wine made by leaving the grape skins and seeds in contact with the juice, creating a tantalising orange colour. Crostata cake with Vinsanto perfectly rounds up this delicious experience.
“Wine is God’s greatest gift”, says Maria, quoting Platone. “We organise small group wine tasting, giving every tour a personal touch”, she says. One couldn’t hope for a better host.
And so, with our our palates satisfied, we’re ready for the next San Miniato adventure.
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The complete truffle experience with Truffle in Tuscany
San Miniato is one of Italy’s capitals for Truffles. And, of course, truffle hunting is at the very heart of San Miniato. You can tell this from the way Massimo, expert tartufaio of Truffle in Tuscany, introduces his passion. His grandfather and father taught him all the tricks, and he knows every inch of the woods we’re about to explore, vividly describing how the soil changes with the seasons. But he willingly admits the real expert is his faithful partner, Geo , the truffle dog. ” Geo’s the real superhero of the truffle hunt”, he says.
“The truffles we find in Spring, are the ‘marzolini‘ (from Marzo which means march in Italian), Massimo explains as we walk through the wood, “which are less rare and cheaper compared to the precious white truffle that grows in Autumn. Around San Miniato truffles grow all year round, we have both black and white truffles, which you find at the base of lecci (holm oaks), oaks and pine trees.” Massimo explains the importance of respecting the wood. “We only use this’, he says, showing us the ‘vanghino‘, a small spade-like tool used to gently excavate the soil to get to the truffles without spoiling them.
Geo runs around excitedly with his nose to the ground, following mysterious scents, and after a while he starts digging furiously. He’s found one! Massimo has to run and stop him from eating it. Afterwards, he covers the small hole with some soil and foliage. “We always try to disturb the earth as little as possible.”
His spirit and love for nature is contagious. And when we sit down at his house later- the family organises cooking classes to teach people how to prepare this delicate ingredient – we get another insightful view into the world of truffles. “It can’t be cooked at high temperature or it’ll lose all the taste and aromas for which it is famous”.
We taste some of the truffles found during today’s hunt and a range of heavenly plates whose taste is so ineffable and unique it’s almost moving. Crostini with fresh truffle, pork cheek and vinsanto sauce, stracciatella with truffles and wild asparagus, potato and egg tart and – surprise! – a morsel of chocolate with truffle that is simply divine. For me, who has never tasted real tartufi before, it has been love at first taste.
A night in a historic hotel at the heart of San Miniato
We go back to the town, and right at the heart of the Medieval town centre, in front of San Miniato’s most scenic squares Piazza del Seminario and Piazza Duomo, we find our lodgings, the Hotel Miravalle. And looking out over the valley you really do feel at the top of the world. Or maybe it’s all the amazing wine and food we’ve eaten today!
The arthotel showcases artworks in the common areas, including some colourful Keith Haring, and boasts an impressive history. It was in these very rooms that the Pope and Michelangelo met to discuss how to decorate the Sistine Chapel. Sleeping in these rooms is a bit like travelling back in time. The perfect place to prepare for our guided tour of San Miniato the following day.
Visit of San Miniato and Treasure Hunt organised by Sara – Discover San Miniato
Before the Guided Visit to san Miniato, Sara has a surprise for us. A treasure hunt! We feel a bit like we’re in a Dan Brown novel, as she explain the clues, giving us a map, a cryptex, and an ancient manuscript to read. A witch has put a spell on the town, people have lost their joy, and the Pope is asking us for help! We’ve got an hour and 30 minutes to follow the clues and find the magic number that opens the chest where the secret ‘cure’ is hidden.
Running around the maze of streets in San Miniato, discovering details on the facades of buildings and exploring hidden corners is a wonderful way to get to know its ancient streets. After an hour, rush back only to discover that someone has beaten us to it and found the solution, so we can relax, the spell is lifted! Now we can grab a coffee and safely follow Sara on a guided tour.
=> Check out Sara’s fascinating guided tours in San Miniato!
Sara is a charming host and a great storyteller, making the history of her town come alive for us with every step we take. We learn that Fredrick II the Emperor chose San Miniato to be one of the defensive strategic spots because of its position at the heart of Tuscany, between Pisa Firenze, Lucca and the Via Francigena. “At that time you could say that all roads led to…San Miniato!”, she explains. “And much before that, in prehistoric times, this all area was covered by the sea. That’s why we find so many shells in our fields and woods”.
Centuries of history and legends live in this town. Emperors, Popes and famous artists have passed through here. A branch of the Bonaparte family hails from San Miniato, and Napoleon himself came to San Miniato twice. We learn the history of the famous towers, and enjoy the beautiful Cathedral, with an intriguing Romanesque facade.
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A heavenly Gourmet Lunch at Pepenero in San Miniato
Our weekend’s culinary highlight is at Ristorante Pepenero, in Piazza del Duomo. We meet the chef Gilberto Rossi, proud of the restaurant’s new location and philosophy. “We only use the freshest seasonal ingredients, all locally produced. The menu changes often according to the season”, he tells us.
On this splendid Sunday lunch we start with carpaccio and a mouth-watering morsel of galetto with a cheese and asparagus sauce, followed by amazing parmesan tortelli with fresh truffle, braised veal cheek with potato pure, and a splendid dessert: white chocolate mousse and coconut crumble meringue, all paired by a choice of local wines that make the experience just perfect.
The presentation and elegance of these dishes are a feast for the eyes, and at the end of the meal it is official: San Miniato has conquered our hearts and palates. We’ll be back soon! Thanks again to Sara from Discover San Miniato for this unforgettable experience.
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