One of the joys of life is spending a day in Florence. You’d have thought after more than 10 years living in Tuscany that the thrill might have worn off. But it never really does.
When I drive my ancient Fiat Panda over the Via Volterrana and see the Duomo rising up into my eyeline in the distance, it just makes me feel glad to be alive. Needless to say, I come as often as I can. But with the sheer number of tourists flooding into the city’s historic centre every year it pays to know where to go, especially in summer. So, in the spirit of neighbourliness I thought I’d share it here: My perfect day in Florence.
My Perfect Day in Florence’s Historic Centre Florence
Bridges, Breakfast and Ghirlandaio
Ok, so I like to get into the city early when things are still waking up. I always come into the city from the Porta Romana and grab a coffee at Bar d’Angolo just inside the gate. From there I walk up Via dei Serragli to the Ponte alla Carraia. The early morning view of the Ponte Vecchio from here is stunning. Then it’s a stroll along the Lungarno to Via Tornabuoni. While I’m here I often pop in to the Basilica di Santa Trinita. I’m always amazed at how few people visit this church as it has some stunning frescoes by Ghirlandaio in the Sassetti Chapel. Culture done, I’m off to Piazza della Repubblica for second breakfast. I know I know, but the baristas at Caffé Paszkowski really know their stuff, and they do a mean treccia pastry. If you go, make sure you stand at the bar like a local. If you sit outside prices are eyewatering.
Frescoes, Sea Monsters. And a lampredotto sandwich.
I have to pick a museum for this day, so it’s going to be the Museum of San Marco (in Piazza San Marco). This is a Dominican convent that was frescoed by one of its monks Fra’ Beato Angelico in the mid 15th century. In a city filled with extraordinary art and culture, this place stands out for me, not just for its obvious artistic value, but because the whole effect really is very moving. The frescoes can be found on the second floor inside a series of monks’ cells, each one rendered with such sincerity and depth that they seem to draw you in. The ‘Annunciation’ in cell 3 is a particular favourite. It’s good to get here early so you can linger and enjoy the atmosphere.
From there I take a walk over to Santissima Annunziata Square. I absolutely love this place. The square is lined by elegant loggias, including the Loggia dei Servi di Maria, which give the square a peaceful, welcoming feel and offer a nice bit of shade in summer. This square is also home to Spedale dei Innocenti, a foundling hospital designed by none other than Brunelleschi himself. After admiring the weird and wonderful Fountain of Sea Monsters, with its bizarre mannerist depictions of fantastical sea monsters spewing water from their mouths, I’m off to Mercato Centrale for lunch.
* My Secret Florence: Hidden Gems in the City of the Renaissance
When it’s not too hot I often opt for a Lampredotto sandwich with salsa verde from the lady who runs the food truck outside the San Lorenzo Food Market. Or I head inside and get a panino from ‘Da Nerbone’ on the lower floor. Get a small glass of wine to wash it down. There is an upper level to the market that resembles a modern food court. It’s a lot more touristy, but there is plenty of good fare to be had if you can find anywhere to sit.
Bookshop, Coffee, Prison
Post lunch is no time to be wandering around in the heat, so I like to potter around in a bookshop. There are a few good ones in Florence, but my favourite is inside the grand old Odeon Cinema near Piazza degli Strozzi. The cinema is still in use and shows many films in original language. But the ground floor has recently been transformed into a bookshop (Giunti). There’s a little café in the corner so after a quick espresso I like to wander the aisles. They have a good collection of books in foreign languages too. When I inevitably buy something I take the book upstairs to the gallery where I can relax in the comfortable chairs and read / snooze / watch the films they play without sound.
If I’ve got a bit of energy left in the tank I take a brisk walk along Via degli Strozzi towards Via del Proconsolo to the Bargello.
Once a prison, this imposing building is the city’s sculpture museum. It’s a treasure trove of Medieval and Renaissance art by the great and the good from Michelangelo to Donatello. The Bargello is a work of art in itself and a wander around in its hallowed halls and beautiful courtyard is an experience I’d recommend to anyone. The downstairs area is relatively cool in summer too which is a bonus, and for some reason I can’t fathom, a lot of tourists never go here so you’ll be able to see the sculptures without having to elbow people out of the way.
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Pints, Spritzes and Four Lions
By this stage it’s usually aperitivo o’ clock which means one of two things. Either I revert to type and head for a pint at the Old Stove just down from Piazza della Repubblica (It has an outdoor area, a decent selection of beers and it’s never that full that we can’t find a seat). But if I’m feeling like something a bit more special I make my way to the river, dodge the selfie sticks on the Ponte Vecchio and duck down a side street into the Piazza della Passera. This square holds a very special place in my heart. I found it quite by accident about twenty years ago, and I used to stop here for a coffee and catch my breath. These days the square is a lot busier than it used to be, but it’s still a great place to stop for a gelato or an aperitivo, (make mine a Campari spritz every time) and if I’ve got company a meal at the historic Trattoria 4 Leoni for a frittura alla fiorentina.
So there it is. A few of my favourites bundled together into one day, my perfect day in Florence. As a disclaimer I’ll say that I’ve deliberately focussed on the area in and around the historic centre, but needless to say Florence has a whole lot more to offer once you go further afield. From the wisteria clad Bardini Gardens to the bustling neighbourhood and nightlife of Sant Ambrogio, Florence is a place that keeps on giving.
* San Frediano, one of the top spots for an Aperitivo in Florence
Author: Ben Carson, co-founder of Lovefromtuscany.com, English born and living in the countryside near Florence. Loves all things Tuscany.
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