This one day driving itinerary leads from the Versilia coast to the mountains in northern Tuscany. An easy but inspiring route, it starts in Pietrasanta and makes its way up to Colonnata, a small village nestled in the Apuan Alps, famous for its culinary sinful delight, lardo.
If you’re based on the Versilia coast and would like to spend one day exploring its surroundings, you’ll discover that this part of Tuscany has more to offer than beach resorts and deck chairs. We love this part of the region for its unusual and inspiring sights – a place of unforgettable landscapes where marble reigns supreme.
One Day Driving Itinerary in Tuscany. From Pietrasanta to Colonnata
PIETRASANTA, ‘Little Athens’ near the Versilia coast
First stop is Pietrasanta, a small town in Tuscany that also happens to be one of our personal favourites. It’s known as “Little Athens” for its links to the art of sculpture, and has plenty of devotees that come here in search of creative vibes and insights. It’s located a few kms. inland from Marina di Pietrasanta, on the glitzy Versilia coast.
You can spend the morning exploring its art galleries, boutique shops, the intriguing Museo dei Bozzetti and discover why the nearby Carrara marble quarries have been attracting artists and sculptors for centuries, from Michelangelo, to Bernini and Henry Moore. You really can feel the art and creativity in the air here, but it also has a wonderfully relaxing atmosphere making it a great place to pass the time. Don’t forget to visit the Cathedral and enjoy a drink in the Cathedral Square.
SERAVEZZA, Summer residence of the Medici
Second stop at Seravezza, a quiet, unassuming little town at the base of the Apuan Alps, with a bridge and a few contemporary statues scattered around the town to remind you that this whole area has strong links to marble quarrying and art. None other than the great Michelangelo Buonarroti, the father of the statue of David in Florence, spent time here while choosing the best marble slab.
It was during 16th century that the Medici family started extracting marble from these mountains, and built a Summer residence here, the humble-looking Palazzo Mediceo of Seravezza that today hosts exhibits and events.
Now it’s time to go back to the main road SS1 and drive up to Carrara and the mountains. The last bit (15 minute drive) is a narrower climbing road that takes you to Colonnata, a little village famous for its location at the heart of the marble caves.
You can see the white marble peaks shining from a distance as you drive along the Versilia coast, that can easily be mistaken for snow.
COLONNATA, the Village of marble and lardo
Colonnata welcomes you with a handful of of trattorie and bars that serve the local speciality: lardo di Colonnata in all its shapes and forms.
What is lardo? Lardo isn’t in fact lard, but rather cured pig fat, a calorie-rich food that was perfect for keeping men going, during their long hours in the quarry. Around the village there are photos of the marble quarry workers that document the hardships they had to endure.
In the narrow streets of tiny Colonnata there are no major attractions, but the atmosphere is quite special. Maybe it’s the mountains that embrace it, the quietness, and the marble dust that fill the air. There are a few shops that sell little souvenirs and statuettes all, of course, made of beautiful white marble.
Visit the “Christ of the quarrymen” , a moving contemporary statue that stands as a memorial to all the lives that have been lost in the caves. With his face looking upwards he seems to be gazing at the mountain top. It’s just in front of the small San Bartolomeo Church, the 16th century parish church whose interior glitters with (no surprise here!) marble.
If you’re up for a climb, a few years ago street artist Kobra left his mark on a marble cave with a gigantic multicoloured portrait of David. It’s a reminder that Michelangelo’s masterpiece was in fact ‘born’ here. Michelangelo famously said that he used to ask the stone what it wanted to become, and when he came up here to choose his piece to work with… he found a marble slab with great ambitions!
What to eat once you’re in Colonnata? No need to ask. Unless you’re a vegetarian, you have to try the specialties unique to this place.
The lady that runs the oldest larderia in town, Antica Larderia Mafalda, explains that cave workers used to base their diet on this cheap and super nutritious food. “Lardo is made by squeezing the pork back fat into a marble basin. It gets seasoned with sea salt, pepper and various herbs and left to be cured for at least 6 months“.
Colonnata is a perfect base from which to visit the marble quarries. Various Carrara Marble Quarry Guided Tours take you to explore the caves and their massive underground caverns. A great way to see a very different side of Tuscany.
Distance: 23 kilometres from Pietrasanta to Colonnata – the small 10 minute drive detour takes you to Seravezza. After that you get to Colonnata in 40 minutes. Perfect one day trip from the Versilia coast or from Lucca, which is located 30 minute drive from Pietrasanta.
Author: Sabrina Nesi, founder of Lovefromtuscany.com, passionate about sharing the beauty of Tuscany and Italy with the world.
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