Barga is a fascinating town in the heart of the Serchio Valley, close to the Garfagnana in northern Tuscany. Set in the midst of verdant mountains, Barga has strong links to the UK, in particular Scotland, and a deep love for music.
Drive an hour from Lucca, following the Serchio River and up winding roads that lead through chestnut forests and you’ll find the most attractive town on the way to Garfagnana. Barga is filled with surprises of all sorts, from its narrow squares, to the delightful Romanesque Cathedral of Saint Cristoforo. It’s also blessed with magnificent views and a lively music scene.
Insider’s Tip – If you’re driving to Barga, make sure you stop at the Devil’s Bridge on the way there!
* Check out our Driving Itinerary in the Serchio Valley: from Lucca to Barga
Barga, the jewel of the Serchio Valley
A hilltop town surrounded by mountains in the Serchio Valley, Barga’s streets are dotted with pastel coloured Renaissance buildings that reveal the influence that Florence has had on the city since 1341.
Barga was in fact an important market town during the Middle Ages, coveted by Lucca and Pisa amongst others. Nevertheless it remained faithful to Florence for centuries, and in return was given many economic privileges that helped its commerce to thrive. That’s why you find many impressive Renaissance edifices that have a special Florentine grandeur. Many artists and architects came here from Florence and influenced the style of the buildings.
In Piazza Salvi you can have a taste of its history in brief. You’ll see the Loggia dei Mercanti (Merchants Loggia), that has been turned into a popular bar-restaurant ‘Loggia del Capretz’ where you can have a bite to eat or a drink under the loggia. While you’re relaxing with your Spritz or lemonade, just think that people traded silk, salt, sheep cheese and honey in this very spot for centuries.
Next to it you see the Florentine Marzocco, the lion that symbolises Florence’s political power. You’ll also recognise the well known coat of arms – the “six balls” of the Medici, on the stone column.
There are photogenic corners and plenty of little squares providing new vistas but the highlight is definitely the Cathedral with its spectacular views over the valley and the mountains. This is one of the most impressive Romanesque churches in Tuscany .
It doesn’t take long to explore Barga, and the best part is walking around the narrow streets to find picturesque corners with lovely flowers and the occasional cat posing for a photo. Just take your time to notice all the details, I particularly love the door frames. I’ve never seen so many intricate, interesting stone frames together in such a small place! With all strange symbols carved into the stone, to give this place a magical air.
What to see in Barga Tuscany, Italy
The Cathedral of San Cristoforo is the artistic highlight here. A splendid example of Romanesque style set high above the town, on a large vantage point called the “Arringo”. This is a green expanse that was used as a meeting point for the people to discuss important matters and later for public executions. (Perhaps why the residents call it ‘prataccio‘, or ‘the nasty lawn’).
Since Medieval times, the church was an important spot not only for religious but also civic life. The town’s other focal point was the Palazzo Pretorio built in the 14th century, while under Florentine rule. The Palazzo Pretorio is a small stone edifice just behind the cathedral, home to the Civic Museum whose collection is dedicated to the history of the territory (open from June to September, only on Saturdays and Sundays, from 10am-Midday and 3.30-5.30pm).
Behind the Cathedral, notice the huge cedar tree. It’s a real living monument, being over 100 years old.
Santa Elisabetta Church: from the Cathedral, walk down the stairs to this 16th century complex and admire the altarpiece from the Della Robbia school.
=> Top 12 Hilltop Towns in Tuscany!
There are a few good restaurants in Barga – we especially love ‘L’Osteria’ in the lovely Piazza Angelio (with a talkative friendly owner that seems to know everyone!) and ‘Scacciaguai’ with a nicely decorated interior and interesting menu.
To find shops you need to walk down to the lowest part of Barga – in the old town there’re only a couple of shops. There are an incredible amount of art galleries for such a small place, set here by mainly international artists.
In Fornaci di Barga, the modern part of town, 9 kms. from Barga, you find many shops of all kinds, shopping centres, supermarkets.
Did you know?
Barga has a strong connection with the UK. Many people from here emigrated to Scotland at the end of the 19th century, which explains why there’s a red phone box at one of the entrances of the old town!
For this reason Barga calls itself ‘the most Scottish town in Italy’. There’s a Scottish Festival held here every year, usually at the beginning of September, with musical, culinary and cultural events dedicated to Scotland. And even a Fish and Chips Festival, the one and only in Tuscany.
Among all the ‘expats’ that chose Barga as their second home, there was famous contemporary Scottish artist John Bellany, that lived here for years, capturing all the vivacious colours of Barga in his paintings.
* Why I Love Barga, the Most Scottish Town in Italy
* Find out more about Enchanting Barga: Curiosities, Wonders & Hidden Details
When to come to Barga?
When to come depends on what you are looking for. For walkers, spring is ideal while in September and October the autumn colours of the chestnut and beech forests are spectacular and delicious mushrooms are on the menu. If you like peace and quiet, these are the ideal times.
The summer is a great time to come. This is when the town comes alive, with events and art galleries being open longer hours. It’s not too hot and there are opera, classical and jazz concerts throughout July and August.
MAIN EVENTS IN BARGA: ‘Le Piazzette di Barga’ (last two weeks of July), food, music and cultural events. ‘Barga Scottish Festival’ (beginning of September): celebrating gastronomy and culture of Scotland. ‘Fish and Chips Festival’ (last 2 weeks in August, in Barga football stadium).
⇒ Why Tuscany is the perfect Autumn destination.
⇒ If you like the idea of visiting small towns with an authentic Tuscan feel, check out our post about 10 charming towns in Tuscany. And here you’ll find some of the most picturesque villages in the region!
How to Get to Barga
The best way to do Barga is travelling by car. Having a car allows you to explore the area and be more flexible. It’s an easy, and scenic, 45 minute-long drive from Lucca.
This said, there’s a train line that connects Barga to Pisa (1 hour and 15 minutes) and Barga to Lucca (around 40-minute journey). The nearest train station is Barga-Gallicano, 4 kilometres from Barga and it’s not at all advisable to walk, as it’s all uphill, narrow and quite busy with cars. There’s a bus service from the train station to Barga, but not many buses a day, so check times before travelling.
Author: Sabrina Nesi, born in Florence, founder of Lovefromtuscany.com, passionate about sharing the beauty of Tuscany and Italy with the world.
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